A Cowgirl's Guide to Canterbury, England
- cheeriocowgirl
- Oct 1
- 9 min read
One of the Best Meals I've Ever Had Was in Canterbury; Also, It's Gorgeous
Canterbury is rich in history: from the literary fame of, yes, that (possibly dreaded) AP Lit syllabus entry to the sections of ancient Roman walls still standing and visible from the street—this UNESCO world heritage site is worth the train ride (one I've made twice!). If you're looking for medieval architecture, incredible food, and a charming stroll around a cathedral city, Canterbury may be the day trip for you. You can check out all objective things Canterbury at their website; otherwise, read on for my personal picks.
Note: While I haven't explored this town on one of the classic multi-stop bus tours that operate in and around London, I've heard good things about this option from others who've had Canterbury on their itinerary. Feel free to check out my experience with the tours I have done if you're wondering how one might go. My speculation, based on other tours, is that it may limit your visit solely to the cathedral and a brief recess around the town, rather than allow space for that and a bit of punting down the river, farm-to-table cuisine, and the casual strolling to see what you may find. The first option may sound better to you: choose what you think is best for your group!
If you're interested in a self-guided, fuller experience, read on for everything you could possibly want to know about a day in Canterbury!
Getting to Canterbury from London Without Renting a Car
Taking the South Eastern Railway to Canterbury
If you've read about any UK train travel from me, you'll know I use the Trainline App (or website, if you prefer). This app is super seamless to use, especially if you're paying with foreign currency. Getting every train ticket you need (in case of station changes, etc.) right on your phone & paying through the app is just so easy, especially with the currency exchange issue. Also, if you're a scrapbooking-type (I get it), you can sometimes opt to "collect from station" to collect a paper ticket at your departing station from a kiosk rather than trying to screenshot and print the eticket option for your future collage. To each their own!
To make this the most seamless trip, you'll want to navigate yourself to London St. Pancras International Station as your starting point, which is also where the train for this route originally departs from. St. Pancras Station is located right next to and is connected to King's Cross Station, sharing its underground lines and diverging above ground. Though they're technically connected, each station is distinct and serve different routes. Note: while St. Pancras does serve the international routes, it also runs the lines that head toward Kent (where Canterbury is), so don't fear the name.
Therefore, upon exiting your tube platform at King's Cross St. Pancras Underground Station, you'll want to ensure you're following the exit signs for St. Pancras International Station, specifically. If you're taking a cab or Uber, they'll (in theory) drop you at the correct station entrance if you tell them where you're headed. Fun fact: the gorgeous train station Ron & Harry fly the magic car over in The Chamber of Secrets is actually St. Pancras, not King's Cross!
NOTE: This train will also run through Stratford International Station as its first stop after St. Pancras; if you are staying in East London for your trip, this station might be a closer and easier starting point for this journey.
If you do opt for this, please be aware that Stratford International and the Stratford Underground Station are NOT AT ALL connected and operate in entirely different buildings. If you take the tube to get to Stratford, you will need to exit the underground station building altogether and follow the signs down the street and around the corner to the international train station. It's about a 5 minute walk and may require seemingly contradictory stairs up/escalators down. Additionally, Stratford Underground Station has many exits that will spit you out four entirely different places... one of which is built into the side of a Westfield Mall. It can be notoriously confusing to navigate if it's your first time (this was my home station when I was at school getting my master's degree, so it's said in love and truth!). Departing from this stop will only "save" 8 minutes once you're on the train; so be sure to determine if this station is truly easier for your group. If it is, you can totally figure it out! I believe in you! And if you exit and find yourself on a stairwell outside of an M&S or in the middle of a stairway headed toward an H&M... don't be alarmed. Keep going! Look for the signs to find the other station (Stratford International) on the other side of the mall! There are even signs in the mall for the truly lost. So sweet <3
For whichever starting point works best, you'll set your ending destination for Canterbury West Station. Be sure to look at the route notes at the bottom, to determine whether it's direct or has train changes. Depending on which time you choose and how the connecting trains line up, you could be in Canterbury in under an hour! Timing tends to range from 54 minutes to 1 hour & 10 minutes from St. Pancras OR 46 minutes to 1 hour from Stratford.
In the app, you'll also book a return ticket: aka roundtrip, selecting your preferred time there & back. You could also book an "open return" ticket: you would select your first train's departure time, but receive an open return ticket that's valid for any of the return trains that day to give you more flexibility should you be loving Canterbury and hope to stay a bit longer (or hating it and ready to leave when you'd like!). It tends to be the same price!
TRAVEL NOTE: Some routes are direct (recommended!!) (just sit tight and listen for Canterbury West!!) and some routes will be via two different trains to complete this journey, usually changing platforms at Ashford International. If you have a change, when the train reaches Ashford (each train stop is announced via speaker and you can see each stop your train will make on your Trainline App), depart the train to find your next platform and train heading to Canterbury West. Your tickets will detail this, and also try to give you estimated platform numbers and train departing times to further help you find your way! There's a small cafe and some restrooms if you need... but don't miss the second train!
A Sample 'Day-Trip from London' Itinerary
9:30am: Plan to arrive at London St. Pancras Station for the 10:00am train
(Note: Most websites recommend arriving 30 minutes early to your train station; for me, this is crucial for St. Pancras International. It's a huge station, and if this is your first time there, it can be confusing to determine which side is King's Cross/which side is St. Pancras from the underground. The stories I have of tourist friends trying to meet me at the station because "they've totally got it" and then not having great cell service to ask me how to get where they needed to go... let's just say I've sprinted to catch more than a few trains. Give yourself the 30 minutes—especially if you're not comfortable getting a cab or using the tube quite yet. Worst case scenario, the station itself has incredible people-watching! I also love checking the boards to see all the amazing places people are headed each day!!!)
***BoNuS sAmPLe iTiNeRaRy iDeA: Head to St. Pancras EARLY to get breakfast from The Booking Office Restaurant, inside St. Pancras Station! It's open for breakfast starting at 7am and is insanely gorgeous with a wide menu. It's my favorite hack for proactively avoiding the aforementioned frenzy; your train will leave without you, but your table reservation has a 15-minute grace period. Take the risk of being late to the latter and better your odds of finding the former on time. Just be sure to keep your eye on the clock and plan to be at your platform at least 10 minutes before departure.
11:00am: Arrive at Canterbury West Station and explore a bit/grab a light bite!
If you turn left, immediately exiting the main doors of the station, you'll find The Goods Shed Farmers Market (open daily except Mondays), complete with seasonal veg, cheesemakers, butchers, fishmongers, breads, wines, and more. It's incredibly beautiful and worth a stop in!
Note: You'll be seeing this pop up again soon in the lunch recommendations, so feel free to save exploring this particular market for the end of the day (there are plenty more, as pictured above!). The Goods Shed Market stays open until 6pm on weekdays and 4pm on Sundays as of writing this post. But, always be sure to verify things haven't changed by checking their website.
As you fully exit the station grounds and head outward, you'll find several incredible options for a pastry or coffee like The Coffee Corner (aptly named as it's just around the corner) or, on your way to City Center, Cafe St. Pierre—a small French cafe with the most charming back-garden tables to sit at and enjoy a tea and a beignet (personal experience).
You'll see much more to explore (boutiques, gift shops, cafes, historical plaques, etc.) along St. Peter's Street, which turns into High Street, on your way to...
11:30am: Canterbury Cathedral
(Be sure to book your Canterbury Cathedral tickets prior to arrival to ensure seamless access—and to save a bit of money! P.S. all children (aged 17 and under) can tour free when accompanied by an adult with a ticket! All worship services are free to attend, always.)
While there is a peak season, this area is not one that I feel gets too, too crowded. The great thing about the tickets, also, is that they do not have a timed entry. If it seems too busy, you could always come back! Last entry is 4:00pm every day.
Note: Please also be aware that on Sundays, much of the Cathedral will close to sight-seeing visitors to respect the worshippers coming for their weekly service. Be sure to double check the website for any additional closures before planning your trip, as well as the practical information for your group here.
12:30pm: Continue exploring! Walk the City Walls & Dane John Mound
The above gorgeous tree-lined street is just a portion of what you'd see "walking the City Walls" which includes the Dane John Gardens and the iconic mound for a gorgeous overlook of the city. There's no direct tips here; just wander to your hearts content! There are many walking tours available on TripAdvisor, etc. if that's something you prefer.
1:30pm Head back toward town center (or the station) for an amazing lunch, through Westgate Gardens
Another gorgeous walk can be had as you circle back toward the station/town center: the Westgate Gardens can offer spring & summer flowers, couples punting down the Great Stour, and a sunshine-y perfect meandering OR an equally perfect end-of-autumn gloomy stroll (as pictured).
If you're interested in punting the river yourself (I don't have personal experience, but I'm jealous), I've been recommended the Canterbury Punting Company. They have several options, including a Ghost Tour version!
When lunch comes into play: my pick is the already hyped up (by me) Goods Shed Restaurant, the lofted second floor of the market with a rotating, seasonal menu. I've been twice (100% of my Canterbury trips) and every plate has been fab. It operates as a sharing/small plates situation and is a little on the pricier side; but it's a treat! Hack: we called the fresh fruit and cheese from the market stands and fudge samples from our Sun St. wanderings our "appetizers" before diving into this menu.
Restaurant: The Goods Shed, Canterbury; Photo Credit: Cheerio Cowgirl. Rotating menu, foods pictured may not be available.
There are plenty of other spots in town center, including Afternoon Tea shops (I've been recommended Tiny Tim's Tea Room), pubs, and local restaurants.
From The Goods Shed, or any central eatery, it's easy to head back to your train when you feel it's time.
NOTE: While I haven't personally ventured over to their area (about a 5 minute drive or 15-20 minute walk from Canterbury Cathedral), some other hot spots to consider are St. Augustine's Abbey and St. Martin's Church (said to be the oldest church still in use). Both are full of history, are gorgeous, and have their own tours: you can find out more at their websites, linked in their Google Maps pins! If I were to choose to explore both or either of these as well on my day trip, I might visit them as my very first stop. Then, I'd walk to Canterbury Cathedral and then walk the City Walls/Dane John area after in order to keep my route as efficient as possible, circling back up to Westgate Gardens and onto the station!
Anything I should know about for my Canterbury Round 3?
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